The purpose of pruning is to improve the quality of the roses, not to hurt the bush. – Florence Littauer

How and when to prune trees, shrubs, and other garden plants are common questions homeowners have. Below are some best practices to help you control your plants and keep them healthy and beautiful.

In general, pruning in winter, when a plant is dormant (late November to mid-February), is commonly considered the best time. Plant wounds tend to close faster and spring growth is stimulated. Pruning during winter allows you to more easily see the structure of the tree so you can make more educated cuts. It's best not to cut off buds and new growth so Spring is not the best pruning season. Summer pruning is ok and will reduce the growth spurt that can occur with winter pruning.

If a plant needs pruning, the best time is now. Waiting requires more severe pruning and can unnecessarily damage the plant. Don't wait until a gate or the side of your house becomes impassable before considering pruning. If you do, the poor ornamental tree may end up looking like something out of a nightmare. Pruning stimulates plant hormones to produce new growth, resulting in “bad hair days” for the plant.

Here are a few quick tips to help you prune and trim successfully.

Unlike other aspects of home improvement, horticulture is unique. Your granite countertops don’t need mowing. Your sofa does not change shape or size or sprout a branch that forces you to walk around it. There are an infinite number of variables including microclimates, shade vs. sun, and watering habits.

In the horticulture business, we have what we call “maximum size” and “ultimate size.” The maximum size is what the book says a tree will reach when mature. Your plants, however, may not do what the book says. The ultimate size reflects what your plant does in its location on your property. If it’s happy it may outgrow its maximum size. If unhappy, it may be stunted or odd-shaped as it searches for happiness.

Dry sites require drought-resistant plants. Wet areas need water-tolerant ornamentals. Shade, sun, and soil content are huge considerations. Study before you make a purchase and be patient. A dwarf conifer will grow into its place over time and get better with age. A Leyland Cypress will give you instant privacy inexpensively. Left to its own, however, it will become a behemoth and need drastic pruning or removal. Selecting the right plant for the right place will limit future topping and pruning issues.

Books, classes, nurseries, green horticulturists, “tree hackers,” master gardeners, your neighbors, and nearly everyone with whom you speak will all have an opinion as to the optimal time to prune. The bottom line is that if you wait until an imagined perfect time the job might never get done. You may wake up one day and need that chainsaw after all.

Don’t be afraid to experiment. It’s part of education. Just do it with a light touch. Here’s one of my real-life experiences. In December of 2008 temperatures at my home got down to four degrees. A few weeks prior I had some time, so I hacked back my lavender and some of my grasses. Typically, I would have waited until late winter or early spring to do this. The hard freeze caused these plants to freeze to death. Had I left some “margin” on the plants, this may not have happened. The good thing is I learned on a $20 plant and not one worth $120.

Keep in mind that plant care is a lifelong process. Thoughtful experimentation and the lessons learned may help you avoid a future disaster. The variables are too many for me to write about, and this author is respected on the subject: Pruning by Christopher Brickell.

I hope you find this information helpful. If you have a specific question, please contact me here. I will do my best to answer or point you in the right direction.

Happy gardening!

Jim Reynolds
Founder

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